Boxy Border Scarf – Free Pattern

Happy Friday!!  It’s been a while since I’ve done a free pattern Friday.  Today, I’m resurrecting an old favorite of mine, the Boxy Border Scarf.  I know it’s still a little chilly somewhere out there right??  Well if it is, and you are in need of warming up, here’s the pattern for you:

Boxy Border Scarf - Bobbles & Baubles

 

Shape

Shape

Shape

Retro Afghan

Thank you so very much to my wonderful readers who responded quickly to my call for help and provided me with a backup copy of my Retro Afghan pattern.

As you may recall, when I switched servers a while back, I lost all of my listed patterns for the past 2 years.  I was able to recover all but 1 – the Retro Aghfan.  I thought it was gone forever but I decided to put out a call for help, and you all answered that call!!

So without further ado, here is the pattern.  Thank you again to all who responded!

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The afghan pictured above ended up measuring 28″ x 32″.  Of course, you can make it bigger or smaller depending on who it’s for.  So here are the steps.  Happy Hooking!

NOTE:  You can use an array of different types of yarn for this afghan.  The hook size used will depend on how big or small you want your afghan to be.  For the one pictured, I used an I hook

MATERIALS
I hook
14 oz of any 2 colors
Yarn Needle

ABBREVIATIONS
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp – space
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS

R1:  Ch 102

R2:  Dc in 4th ch from hook.  *ch1, sk next, dc in next* across.  Change color. Turn.

R3:  Ch2.  Working in front of the stitch from row 2, dc in skipped chain from row 1.  Ch1.  Working behind the stitch from row 2, dc in skipped chain from row 1.  *Ch1. In front of row below, dc in skipped chain from row 1.  Ch1.  Behind row below, dc in skipped chain from row below* across.  Turn

R4:  Ch3.  Sk next st, dc in next.  *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next* across.  Change color, turn.

R5:  Ch2.  In front of row below, dc in ch1 sp of previous row.  Ch1.  Behind row below, dc in ch1 sp of previous row.  *Ch1.  In front of row below, dc in ch1 sp of previous row.  Ch1.  Behind row below, dc in ch1 sp of previous row* across.  Sl st to 2nd of beginning ch3

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until you reached your desired length, ending with a row 5.  Finish off

BORDER

Hdc in any corner space.  Hdc in each st around, making sure to keep the sides even.  3hdc in ever corner.  Twice around.  Finish off and weave in ends.

The Elusive Magic Ring

After having viewed many of the free patterns I make available, one of the most frequent questions I get asked is, “what is a magic ring?”  You may hear or read variations on the word magic ring.  It can also be called a magic loop or magic circle.  Whatever the name it is referred by, the technique is universal.  For the purposes of this post and as instructed in all of my patterns, I will refer to it as a magic ring.

Yes, it sounds mysterious and complicated and you may wonder, ‘why should I learn this technique?’.  The answer is quite simple: try it once and you will never go back to your old method.

The magic ring is used when crocheting in the round.  More often than not, when crocheting in the round, you are instructed to chain 2-4 stitches, join to the first chain and work a number of stitches into the loop formed.   Have you ever noticed, however, that when you are done, you end up with a little hole in the middle of your work?  The magic ring eliminates this hole.  You have total control over that space.  You can have no hole or even a bigger or smaller one.

It is a great technique to put into your crochet tool belt, especially if like me, you enjoy crocheting amigurumi.

It is sort of difficult to explain, so I think a visual is called for in this case.  I looked for a clear, detailed video on this technique and found this tutorial by Crochet Geek.  try it and let me know what you think:

 

The Russian Join

By now most of you know that there are many many ways to join your yarn and/or change colors.  Some are not as stable as others.

For many years, I would join my yarn, or change colors by tying two end pieces together and then weaving in the excess.  That is a fairly stable method as the knot keeps the ends from separating.  It was not until recently that I changed my method to a more secure one.  Who knew that was even possible?

This method is called the Russian Join.  There are absolutely no ends to weave in and the join is seamless!  I learned by watching the video below, and I will never go back to my old method.  Enjoy!

Crafty Christmas: Pom Pom Garland

This year, instead of going with a traditional garland to decorate our home, we decided to go the crafty route and make our own.  Maggie came up with the great idea of sticking with our yarn theme and created a festive pom pom garland

Pom Pom Garland - Bobbles & Baubles

MATERIALS
Yarn in multiple colors
Yarn Needle
Jute

INSTRUCTIONS
The pom pom garland is fairly simple to make.  To begin with, you should make a number of pom poms in various colors (preferable Christmas colors).  The amount you make will depend on how long you wish to make the garland and how many pom poms you wish to string on it

Pom Poms - Bobbles & Baubles

Once again, here is the hilarious video that Maggie put together on how to make a pom pom:

Next, you measure your space and cut your Jute.  You will want to add a few inches so the it can hang a little lower

Jute - Bobbles & Baubles

After measuring and cutting your jute, string it through the yarn needle and proceed to insert it into the center of the pom pom.  This will take a little practice, as the center of the pom pom (where it comes together) is usually on the tight side.  So use those muscles!

PomPom1 PomPom2

Continue stringing until you have added all of your pom poms and are satisfied with the final look.  Make a loop at both ends of the jute for easy hanging

pom15

And there you have it!  Hang it up and enjoy!

pom17

pom16

Market Bag with Floral Accent

I love the look of this market bag and I was able to put the pattern together and whip it up in a matter of hours.  I took bits and pieces of patterns from other bags I have attempted in order to make this come together.  I think it’s quite lovely.  Working in double crochet gave it amazing flexibility and stretchability (is that even a word?).  See the pattern below.  The completed bag is available for sale in my Etsy store, just click on the picture or the Etsy link on your right!  Happy hooking!

bag1A

Materials:

1 skein any color worsted weight yarn (and a 2nd accent color if you wish for the handles, as you can see I used a shade darker for the handles)

Size I Hook

Needle for weaving

Directions:

Rd 1: Ch2 (counts as first dc) .  11dc in a magic ring.  Join at top of ch2 sp (12 dc)

Rd 2: Ch2.  2dc in each st around.  Join at top of ch2 sp.  (24dc)

Rd 3: Ch2, dc in same st.  *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st* around.  Join at top of first dc (36dc)

Rd 4:  Ch2, dc in next st.  *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st* around.  Join at top of first DC (48DC)

Rd 5:  Ch3.  *dc, ch1 in next st* around (DO NOT JOIN – place marker on first st.  You will move the marker up every 2 rows)

Rd 6-30: dc, ch1 in each ch1 space (you may continue past round 30 for a longer bag).

Join to first dc

Rd 31: Ch2.  Dc in every ch1 space

Rd 32:  Ch2.  Dc between each dc.  Join with 1st dc (DO NOT FASTEN OFF)

Straps:

Row 1: Ch2, dc in next 9 sts (10dc)

Row 2: Ch2, turn.  Dc decrease next 2 sts.  Dc in next 5 sts.  Dc decrease in last  st (8 dc)

Row 3: Ch2, turn.  Dc decrease next 2 st.  Dc in next 3 sts.  Dc decrease in last st (6dc)

Row 4-18: Ch2, turn.  Dc in next 5 sts (you may continue past row 18 for a longer strap)

Fasten off and sew in ends.  In order to determine where to place the other half of your strap, fold and lay bag flat and find the starting point for the opposite side.  repeat pattern above and single crochet ends together.

I found a great tutorial (with pictures) for the rose applique here.

If you make the bag, send me pics so I can place it on the blog!